Eating Local, Eating Green: With distinctive flavor, aroma, cilantro has both lovers, haters

Cilantro: You either love it or hate it.

Cilantro has a distinctive aroma and flavor. Those who dislike the herb have compared the smell to that of a stinkbug. And the name, according to the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food, derives from a Greek word that means bed bug.

Photo by Melissa Petersen

Look for fresh bunches of cilantro on tables at area farmers markets this spring. Don't be shy about using piles of it in recipes.

I happen to love the smell of fresh cilantro and generally double the amount in any recipe. But it's a touchy ingredient to use. A little goes a long way.

Related to parsley, cilantro generally refers to the fresh leaves of the Coriandrum sativum plant. In the U.S., coriander refers to the dried seeds of the same plant.

Native to southern Europe and the Mediterranean, cilantro is used widely throughout Latin America, Asia, India and here in the U.S.

The advent of hothouses and high tunnels among our local farmers allows us to enjoy the tender herb in winter, early spring and fall. Our summers are too hot and cause the plant to bolt before it ever gets started.

For the locavores among us, look for bunches of cilantro creeping onto farmers' tables at the markets. Get ready to plant a patch in your garden to enjoy this spring. The plant grows quickly, so set seeds every few weeks to have a continuous crop.

Or just visit the grocery. It might not be local, but it's available year-round and is a nice accompaniment to other local foods.

Seek out cilantro on local menus, especially at ethnic restaurants -- Thai Bistro, Do, La Guadalupana, Las Delicias, Las Tortugas and others use cilantro liberally. I love the pile of fresh cilantro (and mint and other green things) that comes with the Vietnamese crêpe (Banh Xeo) at Saigon Le. I stuff it into the crêpe, make a minor mess, and enjoy the delicious flavor.

The citrusy flavor of cilantro pairs well with fruits -- from tomatoes to mangoes to limes -- and it is a common addition to salsas. For the diehards, try making pesto with cilantro instead of basil for pasta or pizza. Recipes for cilantro soup abound. My favorite is the cilantro almond soup from local photographer and food writer Justin Fox Burks.

I once tried to grow cilantro, figuring I'd save so much since I use so much. However, when you level your crop for a single dinner, the poor plant has no hope for recovery. I now leave it to the professionals and support local food, one bunch at a time.

Melissa Petersen is the editor of Edible Memphis, a magazine that celebrates the abundance of local food, season by season. It is available at various locations around town. Contact her at Melissa@ediblememphis.com.

Grape Salsa

2 cups seedless grapes, halved (use half green and half red for great color)

Juice from 1 lime (about 2 tbsp.)

1 tsp. olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced

2 tbsp., snipped fresh chives

2 tbsp., fresh cilantro, minced (or more)

Generous pinch of salt

1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper

freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup toasted almond slivers, crushed

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Serve slightly chilled or at room temperature.

Excellent with fish, turkey, chicken, pork or lamb.

Makes about 21/4 cups.

Chilaquiles Verdes

12 tomatillos, cored and chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and minced (or to taste)

1 onion, diced

½-1 cup water

½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

salt, to taste

Shredded cooked chicken, warmed (optional)

½ cup crumbled queso fresco (fresh cheese) or jack cheese, shredded

½ cup sour cream

Tortilla chips

In a large sauté pan, over medium-high heat, cook tomatillos, garlic, jalapeños and onion until onions are very soft. In food processor, purée tomatillo mixture, adding water as necessary to make the sauce. Pulse in cilantro. Season with salt and return sauce to the sauté pan. Add tortilla chips to the sauce to coat quickly (you don't want them to get too soft). Top sauced chips with warm, shredded chicken, crumbled cheese and sour cream. Serve immediately.

Source: Recipe adapted from Marco Martinez of Las Delicias