Author Archives: Pest Controller

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  Tuesday 1st of October 2024 05:26 AM


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Latest Bed Bug Incidents and Infestations

Incident Radius: 30000 Miles

We cannot vouch for the truthfulness of any report on this site. If you feel a location has been reported in error, or want to dispute a report, please contact us.

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Bed Bugs in Clothing – BadBedBugs.com

Ive heard of bed bugs in clothing at second hand stores, Ive even heard of bed bugs in hospitals, but at Hollister, a store owned by Abercrombie & Fitch?

On Friday, CNN reported that Hollister clothing in the upscale SoHo neighborhood of New York, kept their doors shut to deal with bed bugs. Its reported that in South Street Seaport, another Abercrombie & Fitch clothing store was closed for a time to deal with an infestation of their own.

So how does a clothing store end up with bed bugs?

Its easy, people come to New York, spend the night at an infested hotel, then bring them into the clothing store. Check out this video of a upscale New York hotel reported to be infested and how some smart shoppers spotted it before it was too late! Wow, that looks like a large infestation that should have never been allowed to get that big!.

According to the 2015 bugs without borders survey by the University of Kentucky and NPMA, Bed bugs infestations are on the rise! 75% of the pest control companies survived stated their business grew from the previous year!

Dirty homes, clutter, people who are not clean are the cause of bed bugs, or so people believe this is NOT the case! Imagine you buy a shirt from a department store that unbeknown to you, have bed bugs in the clothing; you take the shirt home end up with an infestation. Imagine how would you feel if they found out you had bed bugs? 500% is only those infestations that have been reported and there are many, many more that go unreported!

As for Hollister, they have asked the City to help come up with a solution to make sure their customers dont find bed bugs in clothing and doing everything within their power to make sure this never happens again.

Moral of the story: When you buy clothing from a department store, no matter how reputable they are, make sure you vigorously shake out the merchandise BEFORE you bring it into your home (or car for that matter!).

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Bed Bugs in Clothing - BadBedBugs.com

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Bed Bug Control, NC | Clegg’s Termite and Pest Control

In North Carolina, bed bugs are a common pest in many households, though they often go undetected. Thats why Cleggs specializes in bed bug pest control and detection.

Our bed bug pest control plans are custom tailored to your specific situation and needs. Not all bed bug infestations are the same. Despite their name, bed bugs can also infest cushioned furniture and other areas of your home. One of the most proven and effective methods to control bed bug infestations is heat treatments. Learn more about our bed bug heat treatments here.

Detecting the bed bugs can often be the most part of bed bug pest control. This is why Cleggs has employed two bed bug detection dogs. These dogs can sniff out bed bug infestations so our pest control professionals know where to implement our bed bug pest control solutions.

Bed bugs are one of the most prevalent species of insect in the U.S. Based on the latestBugs Without Borders Survey, conducted by the National Pest Management Association and the University of Kentucky, 99.6% of pest control professionals stated that they had come across a bed bug infestation in the last year.

This is why bed bug pest control is so vital. It is often difficult to determine whether you actually have an infestation but some of the warning signs are:

Bed bug bites are usually the early warning sign of a bed bug infestation. Bed bugs feed only on blood. Each life stage feeds, except the egg.

Allergic reactions vary widely from practically no reaction to small itchy red or white bumps, to blisters or pustules. Not every person in a residence will react the same way and many times only one person will show signs of bites, leading others to believe it cannot be bed bugs. If you someone you now has bites, consider the following:

If left untreated, bed bug infestations will just get worse. Bed bugs will travel on clothing or personal items, so if you do not treat your home and remove the infestation, you may cause the spread of these annoying bugs.

Adults and all nymphal stages need to take blood meals from warm-blooded hosts, which are typically humans although other mammals and birds can be utilized in the absence of a human host. Female bed bugs lay about five eggs daily throughout their adult lives in a sheltered location (mattress seams, crevices in box springs, spaces under baseboards, etc). Eggs hatch in about 4-12 days into first instar nymphs which must take a blood meal before molting to the next stage. The bugs will undergo five nymphal stages, each one requiring a blood meal before molting to the next stage, with the fifth stage molting into an adult.

Nymphs, resemble smaller versions of adults. Nymphs and adults take about 5-10 minutes to obtain a full blood meal. The adults may take several blood meals over several weeks, assuming a warm-blooded host is available. Mating occurs off the host. Adults live 6-18 months and may survive for long periods of time without feeding.

If you think you have bed bugs,contact Cleggstoday to see how we can help eliminate the infestation.

Cleggs has acquired trained bed bug dogs whose job is to sniff out bed bugs in homes and businesses so that our trained pest professionals can treat the infestation. Learn more about Smoke and Rambo.

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Bed Bug Control, NC | Clegg's Termite and Pest Control

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Bed Bug Control – The Web’s #1 Bed Bug Resource

Once Bitten

At one point it seemed as if bed bugs were a vague problem of the past, a mythical creature only mentioned cutely before bedtime. However, the recent surge in worldwide populations has reminded us all of just how real and deeply aggravating these nuisances are.

An enormous market for eradication methods has, like the pests themselves, sprung up overnight. Television, newspapers, magazines, and the internet are all awash with a sea of information on how best to handle these insects. Sorting through the barrage of advice and figuring out which options are best for you can be an intimidating process.

Regardless of how they first entered the territory they now haunt, the people who live there and deal with the pests daily are ultimately going to be the ones most responsible for implementing an effective elimination strategy.

Undertaking a through and comprehensive plan from the beginning will save you weeks of time, hundreds if not thousands of dollars, and spare you from an enormous amount of unnecessary frustration.

This guide will assist you in confirming if they are the source of your problem, review monitoring and control options for you with a comprehensive guide to the major treatments methods on the market, take a brief look at some questionable techniques that sometimes get recommended to consumers, and give you advice for what to do when your approach isnt working.

While this guide is directed mainly towards residents of infested properties, this guide can also provide information for property owners and Pest Management Professionals alike.

Before you grow overly concerned or attempt to implement a full-scale reduction plan, it makes sense to first confirm that you do indeed have an infestation.

There are many insects that can sneak into your home, bite your skin, and make you itch: spiders, mites, fleas, and ants, to name just a few. Allergies and various illnesses can also cause skin itching and irritation.

These insects typically leave a red welt that in most cases varies in size somewhere between that of a pencil eraser and a penny. Within the larger circle of the welt you can usually see a smaller circle where the bug broke skin.

Often the bites come in clusters of three, and while they can show up just about anywhere on your skin, typically they prefer to feed on the area of the body that is covered by a t-shirt and shorts.

If youre having trouble identifying the bites, there are plenty of images online to compare them to, and recognizing a match will help in confirming whether or not you have an infestation.

The other main way to confirm an infestation is by locating physical evidence of their presence within the home. This can mean finding signs of their activity, or discovering their main nesting spot within the home.

Search along walls, cracks, gaps, seams of mattresses and furniture, along every edge of your box spring and bed frame. In doing so, you may encounter the insect shells from when they have grown and molted out of their exoskeleton, or find traces of blood and fecal material on walls and surfaces.

(For more information on the biology, see this article from a member of the California Department of Health.)

As gross as these symptoms may be, it cannot only help to locate the primary base of operation, but it can provide a professional with information about the nature and extent of the infestation.

If youre pretty sure that you have an infestation but are having trouble finding evidence or locating them, there are several methods which can help. You can use a trap (often commonly referred to as a monitoring device) to immobilize the bugs, and possibly give you a sense of where they are coming from.

For example, lets say you put sticky traps under each leg of your bed, some on the left near your wall and window, some on the right in the direction of your bathroom. The next morning there are bugs stuck on the sticky traps you placed under the left side of your bed.

This could be a clue that the bugs are coming at night from the direction of the windowsill or from the baseboard at the bottom of the wall to the left side of your bed.

Dogs that can sniff out the presence of bed bugs are becoming an increasingly popular detection tool. Trained canines can be rented or brought into a unit by a professional, both confirming the presence and possibly locating their nesting spot.

It is important to use a smart, experienced dog for this kind of job, and you may want to confirm that the supplier is a licensed professional. As with all efforts at detection, a negative or inconclusive finding does not mean your home is free from infestation.

Its not uncommon at the beginning for you to feel overwhelmed by the reality of having to cope with an infestation.. Some folks take one glance at all the work needed to remove them and say This looks like a lot of trouble, maybe I can just tough it out, or Ill just wait and see if goes away on its own.

This attitude can make a persons existing problem considerably worse. Getting chewed on by these bloodsucking insects isnt like the stray cricket or mosquito that somehow ends up in your apartment.

These insects are highly motivated blood-feeders that have been just waiting for a way to hitch a ride into your home. They can quickly set up camp and multiply into the hundreds when left unchallenged, potentially spreading to anyone who steps foot in your house, and can even begin seeking out your neighbors.

Research has started indicating that they might also be responsible for spreading diseases such as Staph (see Bedbugs as Vectors for Drug-resistant Bacteria for more information). Quite simply, not fighting an infestation can be an impractical and harmful choice for yourself and others.

The course of action a person takes depends greatly on what kind of home they live in, how much they can afford to spend on treatment, and what the particulars of their written housing agreement are.

Rarely is only one treatment method utilized to eliminate them, and most successful removals rely on a balance of Do-it-Yourself techniques and professional assistance.

There is no getting around it: removal requires a great deal of focus and energy, but devising and implementing a sweeping plan tailor-made to your situation will yield the best results.

A tenant renting an apartment may not be financially responsible for the removal of the insects, but this will depend both on their lease and on the laws where they reside. In most states, landlords have a legal obligation to provide a habitable residence for their renters, and an infestation violates that commitment.

Because of the recent resurgence many cities have passed laws obligating property owners to inform potential leasers of previous infestations, and also requiring landlords to take financial responsibility for removal for current tenants (see Overview of State and Local Bedbug Legislation and also this discussion at bedbugger.com).

Accordingly, the first action you should take while renting is to check what your lease says about pest removal, and then investigate what your state and local laws are applicable.

A report should be filed with the management in writing, that way it can be potentially referenced later for legal purposes. Property owners often require in the lease that they be notified quickly, meaning within 24 to 48 hours, by a tenant if there are insects in a dwelling. This is so management can intervene before the pests spread to neighboring units.

Usually property owners will want to arrange for an exterminator to treat the apartment within a few days, and the responsibility of preparing the unit for that visit often falls on the renter.

If the apartment is not adequately prepared by the scheduled date, the exterminator may refuse to treat the unit; the property owners may attempt to charge the tenant for the failed visit, and may even go as far as attempting eviction.

Often leases include harsh penalties against tenants that fail to take the preliminary steps necessary to begin a pest removal. Likewise, if it is the landlords legal responsibility to provide removal services and they fail to do so, it can become grounds for a tenant to pursue a rent reduction, a release from their rental lease, or a lawsuit.

Other actions often accompany reporting the infestation to the property owners. Sometimes a landlord may try to place responsibility for the infestation on the tenant, perhaps blaming questionable furniture brought into the unit.

A renter may want to ask the front office about other recent reports on the property, or inquire of their neighbors about recent infestations directly. If action is not taken by the landlord, it may become necessary to contact the local housing authority, a renters association, and possibly a lawyer.

If you are living in a house, your course of action will be determined by whether you are renting or owning.

If youre renting, youll want to consult what your rental agreement says about pest control. Sometimes when renting a stand-alone house, the lease may be heavily slanted towards putting financial responsibility for pest removal on the renter; without neighbors directly attached, it is hard to prove that the infestation was anything other than the renters fault.

However, this is not always the case, as they might have been in the house prior to the current residents move-in. The property owner may have a preference about who is allowed to treat or spray the house, and the lease may already dictate to what degree each party is financially responsible for treatment.

If you are the property or home owner, it may at first seem like its in your best interest to perform a Do-it-Yourself treatment. While you could be successful with this route, your best bet, especially with larger infestations, is probably going to be to hire a Pest Management Professional (PMP).

As is often the case with home maintenance, attempting to do a larger job on your own for the first time may offer some learning experiences, but it could also prove to be a waste of time and money that leaves you wishing youd instead contacted a professional.

Pushing the stakes higher is the fact that failure to handle an infestation properly in the early stages can make your problem substantially worse later on.

Unless youre forced to go the DIY route, your Pest Management Professional is going to be your biggest help in devising a plan for eradication. Speak with them before you implement any major temperature or pesticide-related elimination techniques. A good PMP will keep you from undermining your own efforts.

Regardless of where you live or the major elimination steps you plan to take, there are universal preparatory actions that need to be taken. They can sneak into just about anywhere, and failing to remove one or two of them can lead to a re-infestation.

A good initial cleaning can help you avoid that. Sorting through and reducing household clutter will give them less places to hide during the remainder of the treatment.

Washing all clothing, linens, bedding, and other fabrics with high heat will kill any pests that might be lurking inside the material. As soon as you know an item to be absolutely bug free, double bag it tightly in plastic to keep any intruders from sneaking in during the rest of the treatment.

Youre also probably going to find yourself making some decisions early on about whether to dispose of furniture or attempt to treat it. The first impulse many people have is to trash their belongings, but hold on: this is a strategy that can quickly get expensive and may make matters worse. It is possible to eliminate bugs from furniture and mattress using certain chemicals that are labeled safe for direct application on those materials.

If you decide you must dispose of something, wrap it tightly and thoroughly in plastic and consider putting a sign or sticker on it that says HAZARDOUS. Then place the item far from anyones home with few or no stops during the transporting process.

The plastic wrap is because youre trying to keep the bugs from jumping off the item and infecting a new area, such as another room in your home or a neighbors dwelling.

The warning sign will hopefully let any sanitation workers, furniture salvagers, or other passers-by know that the item is to be handled as little as possible. You may be hesitant to do this last part, but think of it as bug karma. Keeping others from getting these nasty insects will reduce your chances of them transmitting back to you in the future.

Irritation and desperation may compel you towards a whatever works approach when it comes to choosing methods of elimination. Instead, its recommended that you research techniques, consider the details of your own circumstances, and when possible, consult a professional.

Please read any instructions that come with control and elimination tools, and observe all safety advisories. Devise a plan when using bug control or elimination tools to ensure that you are using them properly and effectively.

Bed bug traps work either by being strategically placed in an area where they will draw the bugs notice and lure them in, or by careful placement in a location the bug is highly likely to scour through.

Sometimes traps are also referred to as bed bug monitors, the reason being that these devices can be used not only to detain the pests, but also to confirm whether they are currently active in the area.

Monitors can also give you an idea of where the pests are coming from. Theres quite a range of bug traps that can be implemented, from cheap, DIY traps to expensive technical units that could cost a couple hundred dollars.

Most interception methods are relatively uncomplicated. Simple sticky glue traps are placed in areas that they are believed to likely to travel. Placing one or more glue traps snugly against the baseboards of a room may trap a few of them, as might placing them under the corners/legs of a bed or sofa.

Other devices can be placed under the legs of the bed to trap bugs using them for passage, such as small containers holding oil or chemically-diluted water.

The slightly more complex method of a bug moat works in a similar way; the moat is like a small container built into a slightly larger container, with the smaller part of the moat being placed under the leg of your bed frame. The well between the smaller and larger container parts is considered the moat area, and this area is coated with a slippery talcum powder.

Hopefully, the bugs will climb the outside of the container on its way to climbing the bed leg, slip down into the moat and be unable to get out. Masking tape is often applied to the outer wall of the moat so the insects have an easier time climbing up into the trap.

There are now several different established ways to lure these insects into a trap, and the bait is typically a combination of heat, pheromones, and CO2.

One of the cheapest methods to put together is a dry ice trap, which is in many ways similar to the previously discussed moat technique, except instead of putting the leg of a bed frame in the middle of the moat container, youre going to put a cup or thermos containing dry ice in the center.

Like your breath, dry ice produces CO2, which attracts these bugs. The goal here is to lure the bugs towards the dry ice and then trap them in the surrounding well. For a quick guide to building your own dry ice trap, see this article from the University of Nebraska.

There are several portable monitoring devices now available on the market, but lets talk about three of the better-known ones.

The BedBug Beacon involved mixing what many claim is simply yeast, sugar, and warm water in a container, thereby naturally creating CO2. The container is attached by hose to a small plastic sticky trap, and for several days bugs will be drawn by the CO2 into the sticky trap.

Unlike the other methods weve discussed so far, the CDC 3000 and the NightWatch Monitor are electrically powered, and both use a combination of heat, CO2, and pheromones to lure bugs.

With both of these devices, the monitor is plugged in, the bug attractant is put into place, and the CO2 canister is attached, and then the devices work on their own over the course of several hours.

Pest control professionals do sometimes utilize traps and monitoring devices, but usually the methods weve discussed in this section are used by the occupant. Once the proper supplies are acquired, setting up a monitoring device and getting it going only takes a few minutes, and depending on which method youre using, can keep working for one night to a week.

While not widely considered a comprehensive method to control and eliminate an infestation, traps and monitors can help you to confirm if indeed they are present, and also eliminate several of them in the process.

Since it is not considered a comprehensive removal tool, a monitoring device or trap should be used in combination with other methods. The best times for their use are:

In the case of the traps that rely on a lure to draw insects out of their hiding place, only some of the bugs who havent fed recently are going to be attracted, so these devices may work best where they may not have regular access to a host, or do not have many feeding options.

For this reason, portable devices may be particularly effective in areas that are currently uninhabited by people, or only occupied by them part of the time.

DIY moat traps placed on the floor, underneath bed legs, can be particularly messy. Theres a good chance that whatever you put down there is going to come in contact with pets, children, or your own feet.

If you have a particularly active home and do not want to see what you put down there spilled on carpeting or otherwise spread around the vicinity, you might want to pass on this potentially messy DIY bug barrier.

Dry ice can reach temperatures well below freezing, and can be harmful when it comes in direct contact with humans. Use gloves and observe any safety precautions the dry ice may come with before working with it.

When using a portable monitoring device that is drawing these bloodsucking insects out with pheromones, CO2, or heat, you want to make sure that the unit itself does not become home to the insect, and that the unit is then brought to a new location, allowing the pests to spread. This could potentially undo much of your work, or make matters worse.

To avoid disappointment, dont overestimate what a trap/monitoring device will do for your situation. Use it mainly as a tool for assessing their presence, killing a few of them, and perhaps making it a little more difficult for them to get to you in the future.

Provided youre not taking any with you on your person to bed, youre using sealed mattress and pillow covers, and then using moats under the bed legs, the combination of those methods may get you through a bite-free night of sleeping.

The NightWatch Monitor is more of a tech toy than the other methods, and so, like many technical devices, it can have its own quirks and malfunctions. Dont hesitate to contact the manufacturer if you dont think the CO2 is properly distributing.

Just follow the directions on the sheet and remember the trapping motto: If your traps do not catch the bugs, this doesnt necessarily mean they arent around.

Using a vacuum cleaner with a hose attachment, the surfaces of the infested areas are subjected to strong, focused suction. It is not recommended that a brush or bristle attachment be used as these can catch tiny eggs before they reach the vacuum bag. Instead, either the hose end or the narrower crevice tool attachment is used.

Special attention is paid to folds, crevices, and hard-to-reach areas where they and their eggs might be. This includes along the seams of mattresses, furniture, cushions, box springs, and along the corners and under the baseboards of a room.

Using a vacuum with a vacuum bag as opposed to just a filter is highly suggested. Immediately after usage the vacuum bag should be removed and sealed within at least one or two more plastic bags, and then ideally disposed of in a location outside of the home, such as a garbage can or local sanitation center.

You can make use of your vacuum before a professional exterminator arrives, or before additional DIY steps are taken. The amount of time this takes depends on the size of the living space where the infestation is occurring, the number of pieces of furniture involved, and your own individual commitment to trying to get rid of the infestation; so potentially one to several hours.

If you already own a cleaner that uses vacuum bags, then this method costs nothing. If youre interested in purchasing a new vacuum with a hose and bagged canister, you can look to spend anywhere from $50 to $400, depending on the brand you go with.

A vacuum is a very effective way to quickly remove insects from a piece of furniture or flooring. Many are resistant to sprays and chemicals, and overuse of chemicals is ultimately what has contributed to that.

A vacuum will indiscriminately remove chemical-resistant and non-resistant insects alike. However, even a vacuum with strong suction used over a surface multiple times might not eliminate all of them and their eggs.

Those concerned about stirring up allergens during the vacuuming process may want to wear an air filter.

Using a cleaner with a vacuum bag cannot be stressed enough. With filter vacuums, there is a risk the bugs or their eggs may continue to live on inside your vacuum and re-enter the home at a later time, putting a person right back at square one. If the pests are being sucked up into a bag that is then disposed of far from the dwelling space immediately after, the chance of re-infestation is reduced.

Often the best course of action for dealing with an infestation, especially for those unaccustomed to handling them, is to contact an experienced professional. Each Pest Management Professional (PMP) is different, favoring some techniques and methods over others, and may offer a variety of services.

Treatment options can range from temperature-based approaches to chemical treatments, and even into full-scale fumigation. A large number of PMPs use restricted-use fumigants such as methyl bromide and sulfuryl fluroide (Vikane), which are only allowed by law to be applied by licensed professionals.

With the increasing magnitude of the epidemic in the United States, there are now a large number of companies, particularly in major cities, which offer complete eradication management, including preparatory cleaning and laundering services.

A property manager may have an arrangement with a particular contractor to use all of their pest control services, or you may have to hire your own PMP. Its important to do some research on the methods used for controlling and decide which path will be right for you, and then contact a professional that can help you take the proper course of action.

Remember though, just as your PMP should listen to your concerns and needs when it comes to treatment, you should listen to their concerns. The best plan for ridding a dwelling is going to take communication, consideration, and effort on the part of all involved.

Even if youre hiring a comprehensive team of professionals to help you manage your infestation, its going to take some work on your end. Decisions about how to handle your home and its belongings will have to be made by you.

The amount of time the project takes depends on the size of the space being treated, the amount of items in it, and the willingness of yourself and others to invest the energy needed to go over it all and see to it everything is bug free.

A team of two or three people working diligently could prepare a medium-sized apartment for spraying within 12 hours, and then have pesticides or temperature treatments applied over the course of a couple of hours.

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Bed Bug Control - The Web's #1 Bed Bug Resource

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Bed Bugs – How To Kill and Get Rid of Bed Bugs

Bed bugs are universal pests of humans and domestic animals, as well as of bats, birds, and various other mammals. The sole food of bed bugs is the blood of warm-blooded animals. Common names used for the bed bug include mahogany flat, chinch, and red coat.

Prior to World War II, bed bug infestations were common. Since the development of synthetic organic insecticides such as DDT and chlordane almost 70 years ago, bed bug infestations in buildings have declined significantly - almost disappeared. In fact, in the United States, bed bug infestations have been exceedingly rare - almost non-existent - until a few years ago.

Today, bedbugs can be found in every State in the United States, and almost every city. Bedbugs are so common now that the federal government considers them almost "epidemic". The National Pest Management Association has declared war on bed bugs and has held bedbug meetings all across the Nation to help educate pest control companies in an effort to help control them.

The most frequent bed bug encountered in the United States is Cimes lectularius, the common bed bug. However, one other bed bug species occasionally found in the southern United States, is Cimex hemiperus, the tropical bed bug. Both of these species are oval, flat and reddish brown. They range from one-fourth inch to five-eighths inch in length. Nymphs and adults have piercing-sucking mouthparts and are incapable of flight. However, small stubby wing remnants can be observed on the adults.

In laboratory tests, bed bugs have been found to carry the causative agents for several diseases, such as anthrax, plague, tularemia, yellow fever, relapsing fever, and typhus. However, there is little evidence that they carry these disease organisms under normal conditions, so they are not considered an important factor in disease transmission.

Occasionally, you might find other bugs which resemble the common bed bug including the bat bug and swallow bug. Both of these species superficially resemble the common bed bug. However, their primary hosts are bats and birds and there are small but diagnostic morphological differences. Problem infestations with these bugs may occur in attics or unused chimneys. Typically, when one host is gone these bugs seek an alternative host blood meal. This is when humans are bitten. It is important to differentiate between the common bed bug and other bugs that feed on bats and birds because control efforts can be targeted at the wrong sites and infestations can continue.

Bed bugs have an odor that in pronounced and in severe infestations has been described as an "obnoxious sweetness". Harborage sites are marked by brown or black spots of dried blood on surfaces where bugs rest.

Bed bugs are very hardy insects. Both adults and nymphs can survive prolonged periods without food or under adverse temperature conditions. Adults can live for a year or longer without feeding and can survive over winter in an unheated building. Nymphs are not as hardy as adults, but they can survive for considerable periods under adverse conditions.

An adult bed bug is about 1/5 inch long and 1/8 inch wide. Its reddish brown to mahogany-colored body is greatly flattened and oval shaped. After feeding, the bug's body enlarges considerably, becoming longer and much less flattened. Although the body is covered with tiny hairs, these hairs are so small that they are almost invisible to the naked eye, so the general body appearance is shiny. Bed bugs have piercing-sucking mouthparts that enable them to pierce the skin and suck blood from their hosts.

Bed bug females lay between 200 and 500 eggs during their lifetime in batches of three to four eggs per day. These eggs hatch after 6 to 17 days. Nymphal bed bugs molt five to six times before becoming adults. Under the best conditions, the life cycle is complete in four to five weeks, but since ideal conditions are rarely found it can take four to five months. Adult bed bugs can live 10 months or more without food. Nymphal bed bugs are known to survive for more than two months without feeding.

Bed bugs tend to live in clusters similar to German cockroaches. Adult bed bugs generally travel 15 to 20 feet, or less, from their harborage sites. Common bed bugs feed on human blood just below the surface of the skin with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. Those bitten by a bed bug may develop small, white to red, hard welts at the bite site. These bites itch intensely.

Bed bugs feed exclusively at night. They take approximately three to five minutes to engorge on blood. Once feeding is complete, they return to their harborage. Feedings take place every few days and nymphs require approximately six blood meals for complete development. Humans are the preferred host for the common bed bug, but it will feed readily on other animals, such as poultry, mice, rats, canaries, dogs, and cats, when necessary. Normally the bugs feed at night, but they will feed during daylight hours in places such as theaters, offices, and rest rooms that are not ordinarily used at night.

1. Perform an extensive bed bug inspection

This includes identifying the bed bugs, assessing the structure and considering your treatment strategy. Bed bugs generally hide in cracks and crevices during normal daylight hours. They enter such areas easily because of their extremely flattened bodies. Typical hiding places are in the folds and tufts of mattresses, coils of springs, cracks and hollow posts of bedsteads, and upholstery of chairs and sofas. However, they are not restricted to these places. In heavy infestations, bed bugs are frequently found in places such as behind loose wallpaper, behind pictures on the wall, under door and window casings, behind baseboards, and even in light fixtures or medicine cabinets. When inspecting for bed bugs, you must look in any place that offers darkness, isolation, and protection.

2. Prepare your home for bed bug treatment

Bed bugs are tough to control. They hide in many places - in beds, closets, furniture, behind pictures, in tiny cracks in the walls, and even inside the walls - so inspections and treatments must be thorough. Before you can treat your home for bedbugs, you must prepare it.

Disassemble your beds - remove all sheets, blankets, mattress covers, pillowcases, etc. from your beds and wash thoroughly. Fold them and place them in plastic garbage bags. Do not put them back on the bed until after the treatment.

Remove everything from bedroom and closets. Your closets must be empty. Empty all dresser drawers and night stand drawers. Take everything out of nightstands and other furniture near the beds. Dresser drawers and nightstands must be empty. Remove all clothing, toys, boxes, etc. from bedroom floors. Place items in the living room.

Wash ALL clothing, towels, and other linens. This means everything. After washing, place the clean items inside plastic storage bins or plastic garbage bags. Store them in your living room until after treatment.

Vacuum floors, furniture, inside closets, dresser drawers, and bed stands. Also vacuum mattresses and box springs. Dispose of vacuum bag outdoors.

Move furniture away from walls. Make sure you can get into all closets. If possible, move bedroom furniture away from walls so there is a 3 foot space between the furniture and walls. You need plenty of room to be able to treat and inspect.

Pull carpet edges back from walls. Being careful, take a pair pliers and gently grab the corners of the carpet and pull the carpet back about 1 foot. Do this one wall at time during treatment. After treatment as described below, replace the carpet and tuck under the baseboards. If you do this 1 wall at time you will not usually need to re-stretch the carpet.

3. What to spray and how to treat for Bed Bugs

Your thoroughness in your treatment is as important as your thoroughness during inspection. Beg Bug treatment can begin after you remove the bedding, disassemble the bed, empty nightstands, pull up carpet edge and vacuum.

Dust the wall voids. Bed bugs can often travel from room to room, especially in apartments, hotels and condo's. They travel along electrical wiring and plumbing lines. Specifically treat wall voids with a hand duster either by removing wall switch plate covers and/or drill access holes discreetly between studs. Cimexa Dust or Delta Dust are excellent choices for void applications. It kills populations in walls and voids and creates a repellent, hostile environment which reduces the likelihood of bed bugs traveling through voids to other areas. Use a small hand type duster to "puff" insecticidal dusts into these areas. A light coating is all that is needed. To much dust and the bed bugs will just crawl around it.

Dust every crack and crevice. Every crack and crevice, electrical switch plate, wall switch - EVERYTHING - within 10 to 15 feet of the bed should be treated, particularly those closest to the bed. Use the "running method" of moving the application tip along the length of the crack. Look for cracks from the ground level to the ceiling as you treat each section of the room. Use Cimexa Dust or Delta Dust. If you make a mess, simply wipe it up. To much insecticide is better than too little for bed bug control.

Treat mattress box spring and furniture voids with Cimexa Dust or Delta Dust. Turn bed box springs over and remove the cloth cover seal. Thoroughly inspect and treat the box springs area with insecticidal dust. After treatment replace the cloth cover seal with staples or screws. Hollow bed-frames, platforms, headboards and any other voids discovered during inspection should also be treated where possible. The upper mattress can be sprayed and treated with Bedlam Plus, Zenprox or Sterifab.

Apply residual Bed Bug Insecticide Spray. After every crack, crevice, switch plate, electrical switch, baseboard, box springs, mattress, etc, has been treated and everything is put back, it is time for the residual treatment. Using a hand held sprayer such as the Chapin Sure Spray apply Optimate, Cy-Kick, Suspend SC or Demand along the baseboards in the bedroom and closet, under and around the bed, behind the headboard, inside bed stands etc.

Do not spray these products directly onto the Mattress or box spring, only Bedlam Plus, Zenprox or Sterifab should be used on mattresses and on box springs. After spraying, wait until all surfaces are dried before putting everything back and continuing your treatment.

Encase Mattresses and use bed bug interceptor traps on bed frames. After everything is put back and all pesticides are dried, vacuum the area again to remove any dead or dying bedbugs and to pick up any spilled dust or pesticide. Be sure to throw the vacuum cleaner bag away outdoors. A thorough treatment is essential to achieve adequate control. It is usually desirable to apply insecticides for bed bugs early in the day, so that insecticide spray residues will have several hours to dry, or dusts will have time to settle, before the room will be used again for sleeping. As a safety consideration it is particularly important to dry and cover mattresses completely before they are reused. A mattress encasement such as The Elite Zippered Mattress and Boxspring Encasement should be used to cover and conceal the mattress and the boxsprings. It is important to use a quality zippered encasement (cover) with a special zipper closure to make sure that bedbugs do not crawl out of the zipper opening.

Bed Bugs can re-infest your freshly treated bed, so be sure to stop them from crawling up the bed posts by using Climb-Up Bed Bug Insect Interceptors. The Climb-Up Insect Interceptor is a small dish that is placed under the bed post and captures bedbugs in a a powder coated ring. These type of bed bug traps are very effective and should be used on every bed to help make a complete bed bug proof bed.

Monitor Bed Bug movement with Traps. Bed Bug traps don't work to control bed bugs - they only monitor bed bug movement. Try using Catchmaster 288i Professional Bug Traps by placing them against walls, behind furniture, sticking them under bedframes (yes they work upside down), and anywhere you think bed bugs could be crawling to get back to the bed. Inspect these traps every few days. If you capture bed bugs, then you may have to retreat and do this entire procedure over again. If the traps are empty, then pat yourself on the back for a job well done, but don't think that bed bugs are gone forever. They could be walking around the trap or just waiting for the comforter to hit floor before they climb back into bed!

The best bed bug traps are those that are used under the bed. The Climb-Up Bed Bug Interceptor is placed below the bed frame rollers or legs. The Climb-Up prevents bed bugs from being able to crawl either from the bed to the floor or from the floor to the bed. The Climb-Up works very well at isolating the bed from the floor and making it bed bug proof. As long as the comforter or some other linen is not touching the floor, then the bed is protected.

Other bed bug traps include Pro Pest Bed Bug Monitor. These bed bug traps are actually mattress traps. They are placed in between the mattress and box spring to capture bed bugs.

To use heat or not to heat? While not always successful, there are other methods of bed bug control. For example, using heat above 98 F is lethal to bed bugs. This type of treatment should usually be peformed by an experienced company since great damage can be done to walls, furniture, flooring, etc, not to mention that you need the proper equipment to be able to perform it. If you are interested in hiring a company to perform a heat treatment, contact us for recommendations for companies in your area.

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Bed Bugs - How To Kill and Get Rid of Bed Bugs

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Bed bug infestation – Wikipedia

A bed bug can individually and collectively cause a number of health effects including skin rashes, psychological effects and allergic symptoms.[1] Bed bug bites or cimicosis may lead to a range of skin manifestations from no visible effects to prominent blisters.[2]:446 Diagnosis involves both finding bed bugs and the occurrence of compatible symptoms.[1] Treatment involves the elimination of the insect but is otherwise symptomatic.[1]

Because infestation of human habitats has been on the increase in developed countries, bed bug bites and related conditions have been on the rise as well, since the 1980s1990s.[3][4] The exact causes of this resurgence remain unclear; it is variously ascribed to greater foreign travel, more frequent exchange of second-hand furnishings among homes, a greater focus on control of other pests resulting in neglect of bed bug countermeasures, and increasing resistance to pesticides.[4][5] Bed bugs have been known human parasites for thousands of years.[3]

Individual responses to bites vary, ranging from no visible effect (in about 2070%),[1][3] to small macular spots, to prominent wheals and bullae formations along with intense itching that may last several days.[1] The bites often occur in a line. A central hemorrhagic spot may also occur due to the release of anticoagulants in the saliva.[4]

Symptoms may not appear until some days after the bites have occurred.[1] Reactions often become more brisk after multiple bites due to possible sensitization to the salivary proteins of the bed bug.[3] The skin reaction usually occurs in the area of the bite which is most commonly the arms, shoulders and legs as they are more frequently exposed at night.[1] Numerous bites may lead to an erythematous rash or urticaria.[1]

Serious infestations and chronic attacks can cause anxiety, stress, and insomnia.[1] Development of refractory delusional parasitosis is possible, as a person develops an overwhelming obsession with bed bugs.[6]

A number of other symptoms may occur from either the bite of the bed bugs or from their exposure. Anaphylaxis from the injection of serum and other nonspecific proteins has been rarely documented.[1][7] Due to each bite taking a tiny amount of blood, chronic or severe infestation may lead to anemia.[1]Bacterial skin infection may occur due to skin break down from scratching.[1][8] Systemic poisoning may occur if the bites are numerous.[9] Exposure to bed bugs may trigger an asthma attack via the effects of airborne allergens although evidence of this association is limited.[1] There is no evidence that bed bugs transmit infectious diseases[1] even though they appear physically capable of carrying pathogens and this possibility has been investigated.[1][3] The bite itself may be painful thus resulting in poor sleep and worse work performance.[1]

Bed bug bites are caused by bed bugs primarily of two species Cimex lectularius (the common bed bug) and Cimex hemipterus.[3]Infestation is rarely due to a lack of hygiene.[10] These insects feed exclusively on blood and may survive a year without eating.[3] They are attracted by body warmth and carbon dioxide.[4] Transfer to new places is usually in the personal effects of the human they feed upon.[3]

Dwellings can become infested with bed bugs in a variety of ways, such as:

A definitive diagnosis of health effects due to bed bugs requires a search for and finding of the insect in the sleeping environment as symptoms are not sufficiently specific.[1] Other possible conditions with which these conditions can be confused include scabies, allergic reactions, mosquito bites, spider bites, chicken pox and bacterial skin infections.[1] Bed bugs classically form a line of bites colloquially referred to as "breakfast, lunch, and dinner" and rarely feed in the armpit or behind the knee which may help differentiate it from other biting insects.[4] If the number in a house is large a pungent sweet odor may be described.[4]

Treatment requires keeping the person from being repeatedly bitten and possible symptomatic use of antihistamines and corticosteroids (either topically or systemically).[1] There however is no evidence that medications improve outcomes and symptoms usually resolve without treatment in 12 weeks.[3][4]

Avoiding repeated bites can be difficult, since it usually requires eradicating bed bugs from a home or workplace; eradication frequently requires a combination of pesticide and non pesticide approaches.[3] Pesticides that have historically been found to be effective include pyrethroids, dichlorvos and malathion.[4] Resistance to pesticides has increased significantly over time and there are concerns of negative health effects from their usage.[3] Mechanical approaches such as vacuuming up the insects and heat treating or wrapping mattresses have been recommended.[3]

Bed bugs occur around the world.[15] Rates of infestations in developed countries, while decreasing from the 1930s to the 1980s, have increased dramatically since the 1980s.[3][4][15] Previous to this they were common in the developing world but rare in the developed world.[4] The increase in the developed world may have been caused by increased international travel, resistance to insecticides, and the use of new pest-control methods that do not affect bed bugs.[5][16] The fall in bed bug populations after the 1930s in the developed world is believed to be partly due to the usage of DDT to kill cockroaches.[17] The invention of the vacuum cleaner and simplification of furniture design may have also played a role.[17] Others believe it might simply be the cyclical nature of the organism.[18]

Bed bugs have been known to be a human parasite for thousands of years and many different methods have been attempted to deal with them.[3]

Plants traditionally used as bed bug repellents include black cohosh (Actaea racemosa), Pseudarthria hookeri, and Laggera alata (Chinese yngmo co | ), though information about their effectiveness is lacking.[19]Eucalyptus saligna oil was reported by some Zairean researchers to kill bed bugs, among other insects.[20][21]

In the 18th century, turpentine was used in combination with henna (Lawsonia inermis) flowers and alcohol, as an insecticide that also reputedly killed bed bug eggs.[22]

Other items that were believed to kill bed bugs in the early 19th century include "infused oil of Melolontha vulgaris" (presumably a kind of cockchafer), fly agaric (Amanita muscaria), Actaea spp. (e.g. black cohosh), tobacco, "heated oil of Terebinthina" (i.e. true turpentine), wild mint (Mentha arvensis), narrow-leaved pepperwort (Lepidium ruderale), Myrica spp. (e.g. bayberry), Robert Geranium (Geranium robertianum), bugbane (Cimicifuga spp.), "herb and seeds of Cannabis", "Opulus" berries (possibly a kind of maple, or European cranberrybush), masked hunter bugs (Reduvius personatus), "and many others."[23] In the mid-19th century, smoke from peat fires was recommended.[24]

The use of black pepper to repel bed bugs is attested in George Orwell's 1933 non-fiction book Down and Out in Paris and London.

Dusts have been used to ward off insects from grain storage for centuries, including "plant ash, lime, dolomite, certain types of soil, and diatomaceous earth (DE) or Kieselguhr".[25] Of these, diatomaceous earth in particular has seen a revival as a non-toxic (when in amorphous form) residual pesticide for bed bug abatement. Insects exposed to diatomaceous earth may take several days to die.[25]

Basket-work panels were put around beds and shaken out in the morning, in the UK and in France in the 19th century. Scattering leaves of plants with microscopic hooked hairs around a bed at night, then sweeping them up in the morning and burning them, was a technique reportedly used in Southern Rhodesia and in the Balkans.[26]

The rise in infestations has been hard to track because bed bugs are not an easily identifiable problem. Most of the reports are collected from pest-control companies, local authorities, and hotel chains.[27] Therefore, the problem may be more severe than is currently believed.[28]

Bed bugs are an increasing cause for litigation.[29] Courts have, in some cases, exacted large punitive damage judgments on some hotels.[30][31][32] Many of Manhattan's Upper East Side home owners have been afflicted, but they tend to be silent publicly in order not to ruin their property values and be seen as suffering a blight typically associated with the lower classes.[33]

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Bed bug infestation - Wikipedia

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